Home Culture Does the Tap Water Actually Make a Difference in NJ + NY Pizza and Bagels?

Does the Tap Water Actually Make a Difference in NJ + NY Pizza and Bagels?

by Jordan and Joelle Hernandez
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New York and New Jersey are known for a number of things including iconic landmarks, movie scenes, beaches, and celebrities, but arguably the most notable treat to come out of New York and New Jersey are pizza and bagels. Each of these carb creations arrived in the Tri-State area with their own sets of history, and have become signature dishes of the region, attracting visitors from near and far. But when it comes to geographic location, not all pizza doughs and bagel doughs are created equal. In New York and New Jersey, they’re usually (dare we say) top tier, comparatively to other locations.

So, what makes New York and New Jersey dough so good — and stand out from all the rest? The bakers of these beloved meals may think it’s all in their skill set, but the longstanding tale says it all has to do with the tap water used in the process of making them. So, what’s the answer? Let’s go back a few centuries to attempt to uncover the story.

JP’s Bagel Express

The History + Process

Over the years the flavors incorporated into both pizza and bagels have taken them from being a European staple to American classics in their own right. Pizza dough and bagel dough are very similar to make, and taste alike when served plain (though some might even find that to be insulting to hear in the NYC region). Both foods use a high gluten flour, like bread flour, as well as yeast to get the stretchy quality; each has a multi-step proofing process, a boiling step, and kneading. The dough is considered ‘lean’ meaning it doesn’t use eggs or butter.

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Read More: The History of Pork Roll vs Taylor Ham in New Jersey

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The doughs’ origin stories each are as different as the products are similar. Bagels entered the NYC scene in the 1800s, according to Untapped New York, from Jewish refugees hailing from Eastern Europe. They adopted a new style of boiling the bread instead of steaming it like others from different areas of the country. NY-style pizza hit the city in 1905 with the opening of America’s first pizzeria, Lombardi’s, located in what is now known as Little Italy.

It’s In the Water: True or False?

According to several different sources the short answer to the question, “Does the tap water in NY/NJ make the pizza and bagels so great?” is “No.” But, it’s not that simple.

Zap Fitness

Here’s why: Ninety percent of tap water in the two states come from The Catskills Mountains (PS: follow @thecatskillsgirl on Instagram) which is said to have softer water versus the average water. Scientifically, the low levels of calcium and magnesium in the water combined with the high levels of gluten increases the stretch in the dough. While every city’s water differs a bit, the one common factor is the water source throughout the region.

However, Food and Wine did a similar exposé, and beyond the origins of the water of our dough, described the production process as the most important aspect of the superior taste and quality of NY/NJ dough. Most importantly, the proofing of yeast and the boiling of the bagels prior to baking them is a standalone aspect of the region’s skills. It also noted, subjectively, that perhaps the advanced skill set of the NY metro area pizza and bagel shop owners also contributes to the stellar quality of the dough.

O’Bagel

 

 

But there’s actually science behind it. The boiling process, along with high heat to bake, is what creates the signature crust outside and pillowy inside. According to the American Chemical Society, the levels of sodium in the water and the pipes used to transport the water add to the flavor everyone loves so much. Before getting to the millions of people who will either drink this water or use it to cook, it is disinfected with a cocktail of chemicals such as chlorine, sodium hydroxide, and phosphoric acid.

Over the years, many have conducted surveys and studies to see if this wives’ tale is true. Most notably, famous food critic Kenji Lopez-Alt set out in 2019 to ask people around the country if they could tell the difference. After asking dozens, the difference was not overly clear and many failed the test, leaving the old story unproven.

So, Why is NY/NJ Named ‘The Best’?

The argument and science behind the water in the area is one that can go on forever. But, others feel there are more ‘unproven’ reasons why pizza and bagels are just better in these states.

Lopez-Alt says ‘bad’ NJ pizzerias just don’t stay in business long, likely because of the high caliber expectations of its customers. Others say the Saturday and Sunday morning communities that are formed at local bagel joints is what really makes the taste so good. 

On an anecdotal local level, a Hoboken pizza shop owner shared with The Hoboken Girl, “It’s absolutely the water. I wanted to open a [pizza] shop in Miami as a second location, but it just wasn’t gonna happen. It wouldn’t be the same. The water is not the same.”

See More: The North Jersey Guide to Central Jersey (Does It Exist?)

But truly, there’s just something about New York and New Jersey bagels — we can’t help but be biased. So whether other states try to claim pizza or bagels as their own or not, we know in our hearts who truly makes them the best.
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